New Routes index

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New Routes (18/07/07)

This is where details of new routes and re-gradings / changes to existing routes. There are many more that aren't in the guidebook, but I don't have all the information to hand. If you've done any then email the details to gmc@cwgsy.net This page will take the same order as the Guidebook, i.e.. west to east. Routes at existing crags will not have any access descriptions, you'll have to refer to the guidebook. Some of these new routes may have been done previously by other parties unbeknown to me, apologies if this is the case.

West Coast, Fairy Caves
Three Men In A Boat- 20ft Diff.
From fort Hommet walk north until you reach the Fairy cave. Descend onto the rocks on the north side of the cave and walk out to the two small stacks. Climbing here maybe possible on low neap tides when there is no swell.
For three men in a boat you need to be on the large stack (southerly stack) on the north face. Climb the face for the longest route, start on a large ledge just left of a leftward facing corner; continue to climb through a horizontal crack and a series of ledges to the highest point. A further 5/6 new routes are possible on these stacks. Chris Harvey (Lead), Matt Harvey (Second), January 08.

FORT DOYLE
Garden Of Eden- 18ft VS 5a
On the marina side of the crag just past the two VD climbs there is a wide vertical crack just right of the overhanging prow of rock. Climb the line right of the prow arete up through the crack. Steve Giles (Lead), Steve Penna (Second), September 07. Cold north wind-HS 4C
Take the right side of a small North facing slab at the left of the crag if you are looking at the cliff.
Steve Giles, seconded by Adam Bradley January 2006).

FORT DOYLE
Cold north wind-HS 4C
Take the right side of a small North facing slab at the left of the crag if you are looking at the cliff.
Steve Giles, seconded by Adam Bradley January 2006).

FORT LE MARCHANT
Between the North stack and the fort is a smaller stack.
Hobbiton-M/D
Follow the crack on the North face
Steve Giles Solo - September 2006.
Cheap skate-S/HS 4B
Crack on the East face Crux start
Steve Giles seconded by Dan Yabsley - September 2006.
Travelling man-S/HS 4B
Crack on South side of stack (fort side)
Steve Giles seconded by Dan Yabsley – September 2006.

MARTELLO WALL

There is no longer a wire jammed in 'Son of Snitter', and there is often Rifle shooting on Saturdays at the range above preventing access.

FORT PEMBROKE
Plecko- E1 5a
Start down and L of 'Greased Whippet' among the boulders and climb direct through a small ledge to finish up a small groove (crux)
F.A. 1996 Mark Page solo
No Ming For Tim- HS 4C
Start at the bottom of 'The Last Gasp' and climb direct through triangular scoops.
F.A. 1996 Mark Page solo
Paul G's climb- E1 5b?
climb the OHing wall R of Lunar Antics using a groove/corner (I think this is HVS 5B)
F.A. 1998 Paul Gaudion & Carl Armitage

APPRENTICE SLAB
Greased Knobs 60ft- S
Climb up the black corner at the LH end of the cliff and through the capping OH. If it's hot and sweaty avoid the OH on the right like I did! The grade is for my ascent, the direct is probably HS/VS.
F.A. summer 2001 Mark Page & John Addy

PLEINMONT POINT
Crime Wave- has had something fall off above the niche.
The Coupee joining the crag to the land has lost about 2m of width due to rockfall in winnter 2000/1, please be careful and keep to the seaward side.

SMALL WALL
Pure Genius- 50ft E2 5b/c
Climb the bulge L of Rib and Slab finish direct.
F.A. Paul Gaudion, James Panton, Steve Giles
The Chimney- is E1 5a/b if you don't use the LH wall at all.

GAUL WALL
To the West of the small stack is a steep gully, on the land side near the North of the stack is a vertical crack which steps around a small right angled corner at approximately half height. (RP’s needed)
Good days-E2 5B
Steve Giles seconded by Dan Herve April 2000
Inches-E2 5B
The crack line in the centre of the West face of the small stack.
Steve Giles seconded by Dan Herve April 2000

BICYCLE WALL

There is some climbable rock on the LH side of the gully E of the wall. Abseiling off or scrambling down is highly recommended. Scrambling up the ridge is suicidal!
Sac of Wrath- 60ft HS 4c unrepeated
Follow a wandering line up the arete starting on the right. poor.
F.A. Mark Page & James Panton 3/11/96
A harder line has been climbed up the corner/crackline to the R but the gear is poor. Unrepeated.
F.A. James Panton & Paul Gaudion 3/11/96

HANOIS CLIFF
Retch
Suggest regrade from S to HS
Zebedee- 60ft VS 5a **
Start as for 'Dying Spark' but follow the handcrack leftwards to finish as for 'Retch' on the LH side of the corner. May be much harder if you're short.
F.A. Mark Page & James Panton 3/11/96
Piper
Appears to have had something big fall off a while back, unclimbed since but probably around E2 5a/b?

EXCALIBUR BUTTRESS

The abseil stakes were backed up May 2001

Martin Crocker has climbed 2 lines either side of 'Excalibur' in the E5 range in 2000/2001. They may have been climbed with Pitons (removed). The one on the OHing RH wall is reputed to be excellent.
Icarus
Steve Giles snapped a hold off this about half way up in 1999. (Probably still E1 though.)

GULL CLIFF
Munchkin Madness- 80ft HVS 4b Unrepeated
Climbs the slab at the LH end of the upper tier. Climb over shattered rock then follow a small LW facing corner to finish left of the RH arete. Poor rock and bad gear.
F.A. Mark Page, Carl Armitage and Stephen Mauger 1999

GULL ZAWN
Vermicious Knid -35ft VS 4b Unrepeated
Climb the slabby side of the arete between 'Mad Dog Rides Again' and 'Dodo'
F.A. Mark Page & Simon Leightley 2000

A chunk has fallen off the bottom of 'Corridors of Power' since autumn 2000, but I doubt the grade has changed. I think the guidebook descriptions for this route and 'After the Goldrush' are from when they were first climbed before 'Mad dog Corner' fell down and raised the floor of the Zawn. 'After The Goldrush' is best started direct from below the slopey ledge if you can reach from stood on the boulder, and the start to 'Corridors of power' doesn't look 6a (although I haven't climbed it).

There is an E5 taking the arete L of 'Nemesis', stick clip the tat, pull up your own rope then off you go. F.A. 1999?

I think the top bit of 'Space Invader' may have fallen off with 'Mad dog corner'. I might be wrong though!

There is another line breaking R from 'The Black Hole' I think. I also pulled a hold off the top groove of 'The Black hole' in August 98 and couldn't do the moves, so that needs an ascent to re-grade it. Definitely worth a star or 2 up till that point.

A chunk has come of the bottom of Breathless since 98, but it's still HVS 5a.
You’re like this-Severe 4C
To the left of Gull Zawn opposite Gull stack there is a narrow quite square shaped inlet with an upstanding spike in the back right hand corner.
Behind the spike on the East side there is a flake/crack running up to a small corner, follow this to the top.
Steve Giles, seconded by Dan Herve May 2007.

MONT HERAULT

There has been a big rockfall in the back of the gully between 'Agrippa', 'Fishmarket' etc. and 'Prolapse' sometime since autumn 2000. As far as I can tell only 'Health Hazard' and 'Krakatoa' have been affected, with the lower half of both routes being destroyed. Avoid the area for a couple of years. There is also clay pigeon shooting above the cliffs on most saturdays, so don't climb here then.

BARREL BUTTRESS (LES TIELLES)
Evening Orificer- 60ft S
Goes up between 'One for the Road' and 'Dangerous Driving' Can't remember the description!
F.A. Mark Page & Carl Armitage 29/3/97

BOULDER WALL

The Slab between 'Brisket' and 'Slab Left Hand' has a couple of lines climbed on 21/12/96 by Mark Page and Paul gaudion and others. The twin R to L trending cracks are 'Gear Frenzy' and the seeping corner to the R is another, both around VD and good for training. There is an easy descent down the groove/gulley/ramp below 'Slab Left Hand' etc.

RED CRAG (LA CORBIERE)

There was a big Landslide below the descent path on the scree slope into Sunset Bay in winter 2000. A path has been cut following the rocky ridge to the right, but it is probably overgrown now.
Gary Bit Tits- 100ft HS 4b *
Climb the corner L of 'Negress', then over the LH wall and up to the top of the slab finishing as for 'Boomerang'
F.A. Mark Page & Christopher Harvey 1/9/96

MAIN CLIFF (LE BIGARD)

The Peg on '9-9-9' may have disappeared 1999

THE GOUFFRE
THE HOLLOWS CRAG (New);
If you cross the stream and start approaching Waterfall buttress up and right is a flat toped boulder approximately 20ft before the waterfall. Walk up the east facing side of the valley past the boulder and you will see a buttress up and to the right. The buttress is more easily approached from the cliff path above, follow the path from the Car park and past the Hollows restaurant, keep turning left along the path.
In the centre of the buttress take the leftward facing corner up to a small OH, go through the OH and a few feet left so you can climb the summit block.
Sleepy hollow-VD
Steve Giles, seconded by Dave Richings July 2007.
To the right of Sleepy hollow is a small slab, climb this direct to the top finishing over the large flake.
Ripped sack-VD
Steve Giles, seconded by Dave Richings July 2007.

SUNSET SLAB (LE GOUFFRE)
Wet- 50ft HS 4b *
Traverse under the overhang from L to R finishing up the RH side of the Corner
F.A. Steve Giles and Sam Woolcombe 29/4/2001

LE BETTE BAY

The bottom of the path down to this bay has had a landslide in early 2001, but you could still get down with a bit of bumsliding!

DOG BUTTRESS
Between Festivities- 85ft HVS 5a
Climb one side of Raven Mad or the other, I can't remember which!
F.A. Paul Gaudion & Carl Armitage 28/12/96

ORANGE WALL (MOULIN HUET)
'Ou Est Le Papier' Should really have a lower off peg or 2 before someone falls off trying to get to the tree! The climb is great, but the 50ft of vertical dirt to get to the belay tree is death!

Guernsey Mountaineering Club
If you're interested in climbing in Guernsey, then Email Dave (Goldie) or give him a ring on +44 (0)7781 108989
created by Nathan Email Nathan

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